Part 3. If it won’t cut, hit it!

hititI’m actually enjoying this little series.
Pry, Cut, Hit, and yet no knives, still plenty of time for them.
OK, to business!

These tools are in the category of “FORGET ABOUT THE NOISE”.
Well number 4 especially.
Using these WILL attract attention, noise does that, as does the sound of breaking glass. So from the top.

  1. Is the VERY versatile RES Q ME.
    In size it’s smaller than the punch and most spark plugs but it does pack a mighty punch. Not forgetting the belt cutter.
  2. The engineers auto punch.
  3. The Spark plug aka ceramic chip aka The ninja rock
    Now all three of these work a treat on GLASS. [Link to Article]
  4. The universal key aka the club hammer is a straight forward brute force tool.
  5. The slates hammer.
    Not quite the clout of the club but remember that the spike has a number of uses especially with the pruning aka garden saw.

I always choose thumping tools with synthetic handles.
I know some will say they aren’t as strong as wood but I like the term maintenance free.

Eye and hand protection sort of becomes mandatory now as flying glass or smashing through bricks can make a lot of shrapnel AND YOU ONLY HAVE TWO EYES!

Some will be surprised that I haven’t included an axe or hatchet.
If you have ever attacked a PVC or hardwood door, an axe has the tendency to slide or glance off the material no matter how sharp it is. In a survival sense that could result in injury, A BAD INJURY. That’s why I’ve left it off the “HIT” list.

This entry was posted in prepping and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

10 Responses to Part 3. If it won’t cut, hit it!

  1. Funny title, still laughing! 😛

  2. shtfprepper says:

    Well, 4 out of 5 ain’t bad.

  3. equippedcat says:

    Might want to include a claw hammer, in case you ever need to nail something together, or deconstruct something nailed together.

    • Though about that and some slaters hammers do come with a claw fitted. For example:-

      When writing this I was thinking for about accessing places to get what I needed and don’t forget I’ve already got a pry bar with a claw on the end.

  4. gamegetterII says:

    I would add a good framing hammer-an Estwing or similar that’s solid steel -the straight claw is great for opening things that don’t want to open-like doors on hinges-I don’t think it’s possible to break one.

    • equippedcat said the same.
      Don’t forget though I am carrying a pry bar with integral claw.
      Add to that some slaters hammers come with a claw on the end.

      • gamegetterII says:

        Not just for the claw-use it with your club hammer-(we call those engineer’s hammers here for some reason)-pound the claw side of the framing hammer into the space between door and jamb and twist-works every time,pops the door right off the hinges.

        I’ve done a lot of remodeling/rehabbing old homes-in a lot of the homes,there were locked doors,the owner didn’t have the keys-so that’s my easy open method.
        Works on wood or steel doors.

      • A lot of industrial units in the UK have steel doors set in metal frames and it’s quite good business bypassing the locks when the owners lose their keys.
        It’s not a lot of good attacking those doors even with a Haligan or equivalent so I don’t even try.

        My usual “professional” quick access is with a battery powered thin disc cutter and go straight through the locks bolt. After all time is money.
        Once in it’s easy enough to swap the lock for a new one.

        Rarely I’LL be asked to pick the lock. Sure I’d do it BUT it’s not a preferred option.
        Anyway if I’m lucky I’ll do it within 30 mins and they’ll still need a lock change to cover the missing keys.
        Some lock experts will say I’m slow and they’d be right except when you are working to the clock, £50-100 for a disc cut and replacement lock is a lot cheaper than £100 – £150 for one (but usually two) security deadlock lock pick and they will still need new wafers and keys.

        Then there are PVC doors. 80% of the time I can open them with a door spreader or lock snapper.

        Except this series of articles is about scavenging and nothing to do with professional SOP.

        This is all about REME, rough engineering made easy!

        One question back at you though. Attacking a door at the hinges.
        What do you do about security hinge pins especially in metal frames?

  5. gamegetterII says:

    Sawzall and good metal cutting blade-had one steel door we couldn’t break open and we just torched the damn thing off-of course that’s when it doesn’t matter if then door or the frame is damaged because there’s not going to be a door there when the place is done being remodeled.

    • Thought that may have stumped you.
      It did me too except I didn’t have a torch.
      I did work out an entry method though. A 1000 kg of Landrover which pushed the door and frame into the warehouse.

      Still the owner had said “get me in any way you can”! so I did.

      My friend worked out another way using a farm jack. Something I’m not going to detail as it works a treat on almost anything!

      Metal doors and frames always seem to focus my thinking about other access points.

Comments are closed.