It’s fun to shoot skeet or any sort of clays but what it doesn’t teach you is what to do when the target is moving and you’re on a long gun!
I’ve never been any good at single round kills on a mover be it a rabbit, deer, or two-legged thingie. There is a simple reason for this, I can’t do the maths involved in the given time. Thus I look for a pattern of movement then either guesstimate, or slip in a tracer, and then adjust to shot fall.
Tactically using a tracer is way past stupid BUT the alternative for me was often a full mag if I couldn’t identify the first strike as opposed to a couple of rounds when using a scope and a fire bug round.
Only there is a way to learn lead and, if you aren’t a complete numptie at mental maths like I am. It will improve your chances of a quick strike.
Speed of foot (Very approximately).
|Knees only no hands||0.32||1|
|Crawling on all fours||0.5||1.6|
|Stoop or duck walk||1||3|
The calculation for lead is:-
Range in FEET X Target velocity (in FPS) divided by Muzzle Velocity in FPS equals LEAD in FEET.
Right about now you’re thinking
He’s walking 4.5 fps x 300 feet (100 yards) / 1100 fps = 1.25 feet (15 inches)
I mildot equals 3.6 inches at 100 yards.
Or about a 4 mil lead.
All sorts of variables are creeping in including value of a mildot at range (focal plane of scope and magnification), value of speed at angle, and the elevation or depression of the target (angle shooting).
On variable power telescopic sights a first focal plane reticle expands and shrinks along with the rest of the image as the magnification is adjusted, while a second focal plane reticle would appear the same size and shape to the user as the target image grows and shrinks. The main disadvantage of SFP designs comes with the use of range-finding reticles such as mil-dot. Since the proportion between the reticle and the target is dependent on selected magnification, such reticles only work properly at one magnification level, typically the highest power. (Data from Wiki).
I simply can’t do that math in my head because I’ve got the mental power of a well stoned newt. So I either shoot by instinct (quick mil dot calc) and adjust to shot fall If I can see the strike, or are you beginning to see why I slip in a tracer, and then watch the shot fall and adjust accordingly? Which I’m pretty good at doing incidentally.
Or the better alternative.
Wait until the target has settled down.
Range by mildot.
Target size (in yards) x 1000 / Mils read = yards to target
Target size (in meters) x 1000 / Mils read = meters to target
Amend range for vertical angle to target by using your handy Ballistics crib sheet) i.e.
0100h or 0500h ( 60 deg ) the range is Visual times 0.5
0130h or 0430h ( 45 deg ) the range is Visual times 0.7
0200h or 0400h ( 30 deg ) the range is Visual times 0.87
0300h or 0300h ( Level ) what you see is the range.
Calculate the wind aim off for the speed and angle of wind (Ballistics crib sheet)
Adjust the scope to your results.
Address BRASS, and loose the shot.
Then WHEN you (or I) miss!
Curse like hell and adjust fire!
I never said I was perfect!